This Wild Wonderland

Reconnecting with the human animal through a whole-system approach to conservation.

11.12.17


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After having only a day to explore Bryce, we headed back to our campsite for the night, ate some dinner, and headed to bed.

The next morning was spectacular. Leo and I had slept with the rain guard off of our tent so we could keep an eye out for any shooting stars. When we woke up, the sun shone through the mesh of our tent and painted everything golden. The temperature was just chilly enough to be comfortable in a sweater and cold weather sleeping bag, without sending shivers down my legs and arms when I got up.




As much as we enjoyed this little home, we had a full day ahead of ourselves. We made a quick breakfast, took down our tents, and piled back in the car for a 3 1/2 hour drive to the North Rim.

To get there, we headed west on UT-12 until we reached US-89 S. We kept going south on 89 until we reached Kanab, where 89 splits off into two roads. From here, we took 89A across the Arizona border, passing through Fredonia, and into the wilderness. Once we reached Jacob's Lake, we turned down AZ-67 S, and from here, it's a straight shot to the Canyon. At this point, the only roads to be seen are Forest Roads, and traveling down 67 starts to feel like a never-ending tunnel into the unknown. If you find yourself headed to the North Rim, just hang in there, you'll get there eventually!


 At last, we arrived! If you've seen pictures of the Grand Canyon, and never really considered the differences between the North Rim and the South Rim, you are in for a treat! Unlike the desert-vibes you get from most images of the Canyon, the North Rim feels like another world.



The North Rim has denser vegetation than the South Rim.Trees make me happy, so this was a pleasant surprise!






Still, the thicker vegetation doesn't get in the way of some incredible views of the Canyon below the rim. We went to Bright Angel Point to take in the views, ate some lunch, and then headed off for more hiking.




Our original plan was to take the North Kaibab Trail to Cottonwood Campground. The clouds were taunting us for a while, threatening rain, but only a few drops here and there. With permits in hand, we headed out on the trail. And then....it poured. At first, we were able to watch the storm from a distance. The thunder roared, lightning flashed, and we watched it funnel into the crevices of rock ahead of us.







After enjoying a little time taking pictures of the rain, we headed off again, further down the Canyon. Eventually, the storm pushed forward, cold wind whipped against our skin, carrying with it icy rain. We found a rock ledge to hide under and decided we'd wait out the heavier part of the storm before hiking down farther. We waited, and waited, and waited...and then realized how much time we had left to go before we'd be at our campsite for the night.

Deciding we wanted to enjoy our one day at the North Rim by seeing more than just the views from our little rock, we dashed back up the trail to the car.


Once back to the car, we headed off again, taking Cape Royal Road, to the "Y" 5.4 miles down, and traveling down another 2.6 miles before finding ourselves at Point Imperial. We had wanted to go to Cape Royal, but the road was closed because of the weather. There were trees and rocks and water all over the roads, but we got to the Point in one piece, and right around sunset!



Point Imperial is the highest point on either of the rims, at an elevation of approximately 8,000, and it offers the northernmost view of the Canyon within the park. The views are dramatic, with Mount Hayden standing out as a main focal point in the landscape.

There are two hiking options from Imperial Point - Ken Patrick Trail, a 9.8 mile one-way hike leading back towards the North Kaibab parking area, and the Point Imperial Trail - a 5.4 mile roundtrip trail that heads to the north.


We enjoyed horsing around a bit after the rain came to a halt. We took too many of these - this is only a tiny portion. You're welcome.






 In better spirits, we enjoyed the quietness of Point Imperial with minimal interruption. In fact, despite being one of the most popular viewpoints in the park, we only saw 3 or 4 other people.

We also found ourselves in the company of this beauty. Ravens joined us in the majority of places we visited this summer.







 With the daylight quickly slipping away, we got in the car and headed back to the North Kaibab parking area. Since we had permits to be on the trail overnight, we decided our best bet was to just sleep in the car, and then head back out on the trail in the morning.

We made ourselves some dinner, arranged our sleeping area, and settled in to do our nightly journals. That's when things got messy. A few moments into writing our journals, bright lights blinded us through the windows, and someone knocked on the door. Being alarmed, it took a moment to process what was happening. Leo got out and was spoken to by two rangers. They informed us that despite having permits to park there overnight, we were not allowed to sleep there. Frustrated, Leo explained that we didn't understand what it mattered whether we slept in the car or on the trail, as many hikers sleep in their cars before heading out on an early hike. The nearest option for sleeping outside of the park was over 30 minutes away, and as we were planning on hiking again in the morning, it seemed pointless to drive out, and then back in again a few hours later.

The argument was wasted, however, and soon Yaz and I rushed to get the driver's seat cleared so we could go. Leo jumped into the driver's seat, and we drove off towards the nearest Forest Road, where, after some searching, we gave up and parked on the side of the road to sleep.

We decided to skip revisiting the park the next morning, and headed to our next destination, Zion.


STATS:
Date: July ,30 2017
Location: Bryce Canyon National Park to North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park
Length of Stay: 1 day
Time from last stop: 3.5 hours
Miles from last stop: 157 miles


Accumulated # of Days: 13
Accumulated Miles: 2,436 miles


Highlights: Colorful rocks, incredible views of the Canyon, several nice viewpoints
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐ (1 for the Rangers)

27.11.17

July 29, 2017


When I say we left the best for last while we were visiting Bryce, I mean it. After hiking two trails earlier, we had a bit of time before dark to explore a little more. I had read about Fairyland Loop and desperately wanted to check it out, so we headed over to Fairyland Point to get started.

I confess, we didn't do the entire trail, as it is an 8 mile, moderate to strenuous loop, and the sun was setting when we arrived at the trailhead. We left our headlamps and water in the car, so we only hiked about 1 - 2 miles before turning around and heading back. However, what we did hike was AMAZING. Every moment was quiet, peaceful, and beautiful.


The trail starts out at Fairyland Point, and we decided to start on the left side of the loop (facing the canyon). The trail is connected to the Rim Trail, so if you decide to start by taking a right from the Point, you'll end up on that trail and can take it the full length, or cut back onto Fairyland after you are near the North Campground General Store. Alternatively, you could start Fairyland at this junction.


Every trail we did at Bryce had beautiful views, but there was just something so special about this place. Pictures don't do it justice, but trust me, if you're ever at Bryce and want to do a bit of soul-searching, this is the place.

And here's us at the beginning of the hike with our squishy, happy faces.




I really don't have the words to describe the energy here. It was whole, gentle, guiding...we walked and enjoyed the silence, felt grateful for each other's company, and took in every moment. It was one of the most raw, spontaneous, spiritual hikes I've ever had the pleasure of finding myself on. It was a sacred space that you truly have to experience in order to fully appreciate.




I realize that maybe we were a bit lucky. Coming in the evening meant fewer people (and by fewer I mean none). The trail may be less calm in the daytime, and although the portion we hiked was easy, it does eventually lead into the canyon, with several elevation changes that may be strenuous for novice hikers, out-of-shapers, elders, and youth. If you are planning on taking this hike in the daytime, remember to bring ample water - one quart/liter per person for every 2-3 hours. You will also want protection from the sun, so make sure to dress accordingly, and bring a hat and/or sunscreen. 


We were in love with the size of these needles...





Gorgeous views of some hoodoos.





If you continue taking the trail through its entirety, you will pass through Fairyland Canyon and Tower Bridge. Then, you will come to the largest climb of the trip, up to Sunrise Point before heading back to Fairyland Point.



When we got back to the beginning of the trail there was a group of 20-somethings hanging out that brought our stress levels way up after having such a relaxing time. They were smoking and throwing rocks into the canyon, trying to hit the hoodoos. We spoke to them and reported the incident to a Ranger, but the whole ordeal was really upsetting.
Don't throw rocks into canyons, just don't. This is native land; sacred, beautiful, native land. Stolen, and then eventually turned into a National Park. This area, and all other sacred sites, parks, and nature areas deserve respect and humility from all that visit. Secondly, please refrain from smoking cigarettes in public areas, especially parks. Cigarettes pollute the environment, other visitor's lungs, and the lung's of all the other creatures that live there. When visiting these parks, remember to pack some respect.


The Verdict:

This hike is unreal. Although we didn't do the entire loop, I would still say with confidence that this was my favorite hike at Bryce. If you're up for a sweaty, 8-mile loop, start early and carry plenty of water. If you're only visiting for a short time and want to enjoy a few minutes of peacefulness, save Fairyland for an evening stroll and walk until you feel like turning around. If you're only hiking a shorter version of this loop, the hike is easy to moderate and can be enjoyed by almost anyone. If you're planning on hiking the entire loop, the trail is moderate to strenuous.
If you're in need of some solitude, spiritual healing, and connection - this hike, particularly in the evening with few or no other people on the trail, may be just the hike you are looking for.


Distance: 8 mi loop (we hiked only a portion and then turned around)
Type: Loop
Elevation Gain: 1535 ft with a pretty serious descent and climb (virtually none for a short hike)
Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous (easy to strenuous first mile)
Crowd: Light (may be heavier earlier in the day)
Overall Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐


Want more from our summer roadtrippin' adventure? Click here!
Hungry for more about Bryce? Click here!